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I agree - increasing consumption of meat (fish included) on the global level is a good example of "things are well as long as we keep on rowing at full speed". Or, to be more precise - "as long as we can keep on rowing at full speed, and increasing our speed all the time." The more land area is harnessed to farming cattle, and the more ocean fisheries are over-fished, the sooner we approach a tipping point, when the dent in the branch becomes so big that it can't support our weight any more.
So, to make things more sustainable, it would be better to turn to local, sustainable, small-scale well-farmed food supply chains. Luckily, this is something that many of us can do in our personal lives, without a need to launch a full-scale political revolution to re-shape the global political system. Although, for the sake of realism, it must be said that small individual choices might easily seem to be in vain as long as the financial and political elites are running the way they do. But that must not fool us into passive mentality; we can also think that the combined effect of personal choices add up to a global momentum driving the shift towards more sustainable future.